They differ in size and design of the head of the bolt. After you have restored the entire front suspension assembly, the engine and transmission can also be attached. Either clean them with a wire wheel on a bench grinder or blast them until they are completely clean. Next, remove the pin from the rag joint connecting the column to the steering box.

The first step is to press out the shaft from the lower control arm, leaving the rubber bushing in the arm. The bleeder valve is usually stuck or rusted and is replaced with a new one. When you reinstall the dash use the same support wire you used on disassembly so you can access and hook up all the wires and cables before sliding it in place and re-bolting it. You can powdercoat it or paint it with enamel. If you have a power steering unit it is painted black and the steering column is shorter than the manual unit. Note the correct, original larger teeth on the adjuster. The steering column attaches to the steering box and is secured with a drive-through pin. Usually the internal gears of the manual steering box are worn and the steering has a lot of play.

The lower ball joint is held on by six castle nuts while the upper is held on by three castle nuts. This close-up shows additional inspection marks.

The mechanical restoration of your front and rear suspension is crucial to a fully functional car that can be driven and enjoyed. You do not want to install the pin twice or risk having to drill out a broken pin when it’s in the car. As you disassemble your originals you will probably find that they have been replaced. Yes, there are differences and of course different date codes, but the design is basically the same.

The finish you choose is entirely up to you. All of the steering linkage is natural in appearance. The rear suspension was a far more common arrangement, with the live axle (be it a Chrysler 81 ⁄4, 83 ⁄4, or Dana 60 housing) attached to a pair of leaf spring packs hanging below the rearward frame rails.

Document with pictures every castle nut, tie-rod end, and original part for later reference. Loosen the two lower bolts but do not remove them. Beware, however, that this is seldom the case except for a few high-dollar, low-mileage survivor cars. Use care not to damage the arm. They are black phosphate, not natural metal. The reason for the different location of the tab is that in 1970 the sway bar configuration changed. Companies sell complete kits to rebuild your front suspension but they do not have the same appearance as the original MOOG parts. To minimize the tension on the bushing, what should I do?............................MO. They must always be replaced.

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