If you have already chosen one line on your barrel as the upper one, then make sure you have the pressure ring the right way up. Fill the barrel completely with water and repeat the air test up to 50 lbs pressure and let it stand for around half an hour. This gives an exact measurement for the outer circumference, so all you need to do is to fold that length in half and mark it on the paper again. As if the day's find was not good enough, while walking around the yard waiting for the gears to be removed, I came across the carcass of a Case SC.

With one piece of timber inserted in the tube at the chuck end, sitting close to the chuck so the jaws are not gripping inwardly on unsupported copper tube, and the other piece of timber sitting around 1/2inch (13mm) inside the tail-stock end of the barrel, with barely an inch of the studding protruding beyond the timber, and both pieces of timber nutted tightly both sides in place, you can support the tailstock end on the tailstock centre, as in the picture. The examiner wants to be able to see the boiler shell holding tight before he can consider giving the necessary documentation.

Hi, thanks for stopping by. Being a belt drive it was a 5 minute operation to change the speed and 10-15 minutes to change the feed, (so most of the time it didn't get changed) so I started looking for a new lathe. Trim the length of the overlap so that a complete circle is formed inside the end of the barrel, with barely a gap between the two mating ends. After straightening the hornplates in a home made plate bender the shafts can easily be turned by hand. Centre punch each of these points, along with the central one for the boiler stay to poke through.

and wrap it tightly around the barrel, marking where the overlap point is.

The adventure had begun. It is reported that between 1904 and 1910 nine Little Samson 4NHP, 5 ton, steam tractors were built.

Using the paper method the other side can be found and a second line marked in the same way. Doing it this way allows the remainder of the rod to sit inside the barrel and just poke through the front central hole by ¼ inch (6mm) which is ideal for the remaining nut height on the front end, which will be added later, once the back end is soldered. The boiler was finished and tested in June. Steel for the half-scale Case boiler and wheel rims.

account? 3" Burrell Traction Engine build. (Countersunk screws can be used just the same, and if you are using studding, then 16 of the 4BA steel nuts are needed). 42-year-old dream becomes reality in a half-scale Case steam engine. Built originally in 1905, zero of them ever lived on – until recreated from scratch in 2018 by Kory Anderson. That engine hoist comes in useful again, this time to lift the 450kg lathe, The lathe installed on its stand - note the WM800 had to be re-sited, So that's most of the major equipment in place. This site is a place for steam engineers and hobbyists to learn more about bringing the 150 Case to life.

This section also covers the softening of your copper, using an acid solution to neutralize any flux, checking for leaks and pressure testing and can be found by clicking this green paragraph. These marks will be used for the setting out, so will need to be obvious, but not overly so.

The first is a ⁷/₃₂ by 40 thread, which attaches to my pressure gauge (imperial sizes again – if you have a pressure gauge with different sized threads, then work yours accordingly). I now understand why you bought the Kinwa 430. • 8, brass hex head 4BA bolts X 1 inch (25mm) or brass 4BA studding. If you now trim it down to just fit inside the rear of the barrel, and with the line upright as in the picture, the central hole needs to be drilled 1/4inch (6mm) to match your phosphor bronze stay rod diameter and the other four can be drilled with a 15/32” (12mm), with A drilled at 13mm. If you start heating directly at the top on the pressure plate, just to build up the temperature evenly, once you see the flux turn to a clear liquid and shortly after, your solder is applied and runs, simply work around the pressure ring before adding a blob to each of the bushes and finally the central nut and rod, making sure the solder is showing all around the various protruding parts, but make a point of not getting any in the centre-drilled end of the rod.

Metal Casting: A Sand Casting Manual For The Small Foundry Volume 1, VOUK'S STEAM THRESHING AND LUMBER SAWING SHOW, Industrial Designers Transform Tractor Industry, Restoration of a Minneapolis Traction Engine, Double-Take: A Ferguson 40 Utility and Massey-Harris 50 Utility. My Case steam engine arrived at the house April 18, 2007 - 1,047 days after delivery of the steel for the boiler. The boiler barrel is now taking shape, so after cleaning and checking the seals, a method of checking the pressure holding capacity is needed. Preferably using the 13mm rather than 1/2inch to allow for the depth of internal thread. For Model Traction Engine drawings, traction engine castings and traction engine accessories, welcome to Plastow Traction Engines, offering a wide range of drawings, castings and accessories to the model traction engine enthusiast. I know that writing posts is time consuming and boring. Following casting "Take 2" this time we have a winner, the draft angles were all left, and the casting allowed to look like a casting, rather than machining it like the previous one. I was about to give up when I spotted the remains of a John Deere rear end in the back of the yard with a tree growing out of it. The more work you do (tap, bend, anything regarding the shaping) to the ring means it loses its softness and the harder the ring will become. Sign in with your online account.

What this has done is to give two positions on the paper, which can be applied to the barrel, showing the exact top and bottom of the barrel. This point needs marking on you barrel, and with the scriber point aligned with this second mark, a second line can be lightly scribed along the length of your barrel, that way giving you a top and bottom line to work to. • One 3.6mm drill (tight clearance size for 4BA bolts). Over the course of several years, starting in the spring of 2004, steel was ordered for the boiler and wheel rims and delivered to Steam Age. With the installation of the boiler blanket and whistle manifold, the engine was ready for testing with a fire in the boiler. Simply add your name and email address to the Announcement List form and I’ll send you the occasional email alert when there have been significant updates to the website.

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If you cut two pieces of half-inch plywood, or whatever other scraps of wood you may have, (ply is easiest as the crossed grain gives it better machining abilities and makes it sturdier) to a little over 4 inches diameter, centre drill them to match the diameter of a piece of studding you have (threaded bar), 3/8inch (10mm) diameter is fine, which needs centre drilling at both ends so that it can be carried in a centre in your tailstock), and turn them down on your studding – nutted tight both sides of both pieces of timber – to a tight fit so they just fit inside your barrel. My interest and knowledge of steam was fostered by my uncle, Ralph Lee, and by attending many reunions at Wauseon over the years. • 2 lengths of 12 inches (300mm) X ¼ inch (6mm) square copper rod (for the external anchor rings).

I would like to share a story about achieving a 42-year-old dream - owning my own steam traction engine.

I was not the only one interested in the Deere's remains.

The Drive - Page 2. If you wish, you can provide these same marks using a piece of angle iron by sitting the angle iron along the length of your boiler and scribing along one edge of the angle iron, that way a line can be drawn truly along its length.

Mounted engine frame with eccentric and governor drive pulley in place.

Hopefully, this will inspire others to make a start on this popular engine. • A bench drill with stand – A hand drill can be used, but the bench drill is a little more accurate.

1 1/2" Allchin Model General Purpose Traction Engine Build All progress on the Allchin is linked from the project record: 3rd August 2020. From the drawing you can see the upright centre line is marked and the two upper hole centres are 1/2inch (12mm) either side of this line and 5/8 inch (16mm) down from what will be the outside edge of the boiler tube, so that makes it 9/16 inch (14mm) from the inside edge of the tube, or 1 and 3/8 inch (35mm) up from the central crossing point.

This particular model has become a favorite throughout the model engineering community as the drawings and casting are readily available and as such there has been hundreds of examples built over the years.

The clutch assembly, cylinder and piston, and site glass assembly, all mounted.

The picture shows the 6mm studding I originally used, but this was not really sturdy enough. For that reason I tend to stick with the old imperial sizes for taps and dies as they produce a far better result. The same process needs to be done here with the pressure/anchor ring, but before this is done the rear 13-gauge plate needs to be marked and drilled for its necessary parts. If you started off with the barrel a little shorter, then adjust the rear pressure ring so that it sits flush with the rear end of the barrel. The rod length can easily be reduced to match the length of the boiler barrel once the parts are soldered together. The reason for the larger fitting is that the feed piping needs to be 5/32” (8mm) outside diameter to accommodate the flow of steam should the relief valves lift, whereas the water feeds and sight gauge do not need to be so big. I also took this opportunity to install some extra sockets. • Taps and die to produce the threads on the stay @ ¼ inch x 40 (6mm x 1). However, my shop lathe and milling machine were too small for such a project and I knew just enough about welding to know I had no business building my own boiler.

Yes, that was a good day indeed!

One point here is that if you are thinking of scaling this engine up to 1.5:1 or running it at a higher pressure of say 75lbs/sq”, then doing it at 1.5:1 is about the most you can get with a copper boiler owing to the linear strength of copper, plus at the larger size, using a 6” diameter copper tube, the end plates would need more stays, another 4 spread out evenly over the plate area with 1 sitting centrally. The Fore-carriage - Page 1.

In fact the same chap has also posted a short video of his same engine in steam and pulling him along, which should get your build interest fired up all the more. The photo below shows the progress of his build as of 5 June 2016.

To get around that, just download the PDF’s. You'll get 12 issues of Farm Collector for only $29.95 (USA only). Three more marks need to be added.

An alternative for your own testing is to have it on your bench and dab some water containing a little washing up liquid (soap) all around the boiler. My first step was to find a set of plans. Tandem Build – Fergal’s Engine as of 5 June 2016. This site follows the build of the 1:8 scale model of the 'Royal Chester' general purpose traction engine based on the design published by the late Bill Hughes.

If it's old and from the farm, we're interested in it! The original total time to produce this simple boiler for P Y R T E is just under.

Over the succeeding months, the injectors, throttle valve, two pressure relief valves, governor assembly, mechanical oiler, valve gear and linkages were completed and installed on the steam traction engine.

The right bearing was a challenge, as I had no casting for it.

My back hurts just thinking about moving all those heavy steel parts around during the alignment and assembly phases , BTW: I moved from Nong Khae to Bang Saen. By the time it was completed, I didn't know whether to mount it on the boiler's wing sheets or put it on display as a piece of modern art in a museum.

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